2014 Grand Canyon Ride
The navigator spent a considerable amount of time doing due
diligence to create a route with the simple intent of: starting in Utah and
riding a three day unsupported loop to possibly include the Grand Canyon and
Bryce Canyon. The ride was going to be a "last chance epic" ride for
Stu and Jim's sons, Matt and Bob respectively.
Due to the way the Utah mountains run north to
south, a “loop” was a bit difficult to create.
After several renditions involving an AAA map and various colored
highlighter markers, a route was formed.
I emailed the group with the suggestion of: Day one,
Parking the truck just outside of Zion NP and riding to the Grand Canyon
with the intent of spending the night at Vermillion Cliffs. Day two, a trip up
and over the Escalante plateau. Day three, a loop back through Bryce Canyon and
then head back to the truck. I emailed
the group with the details of the ride and some questions about optional side
trips. Stu replied with the usual, “I’m
in.” Ray, Matt, and Bob all confessed
that they had no idea where they were going until I explained it on the truck
ride up the 15 N.
A last check of the weather had snow showers on
day two. Moto riding in the snow is pretty much unfun. The plan would
have to go into flex mode and sent the navigator recalculating on his slide
ruler and charts for the optimum solution. :-)
Leaving Friday morning, at one hour minus
odark, we drove straight through California and Nevada on to Utah. The car ride
was filled with stories of this and that but was punctuated with a story from
Stu of an east coast college student who called Stu looking for a donation. Somehow, a discussion ensued and Stu found out
that the college student had absolutely no idea that there was a time
difference between New York and San Diego.
This sent Stu ballistic with a tirade of how our nation was going to the
dogs. The rest of the trip was
punctuated by one line zingers of other under-estimations.
Our truck sped past the trip’s original drop
zone and headed another hour to the trailhead of our favorite 5star Grand
Canyon overlook.
Ahhhh it was good to get on the bikes finally
at 16:00. The trail was twelve miles of dirt but it was just what we needed to
shake off all the travel time. And the reward was off the charts, just about
the best raw overlook of the Grand Canyon. Matt and Bob’s first views of the
canyon. We were at a remote location near the head waters of the Grand
Canyon, a sight that very few others ever get to see. We snapped dozens of
selfies with the glorious view over our shoulders.
Matt used his GoPro camera to film a rock tossed
over the edge. The hang time was unreal. Just watching the video was unreal and
induces vertigo watching the poor rock plummet over the edge. Bob commented
that he suspected the canyon to be at least a few hundred feet deep and maybe
older than his father, perhaps even a hundred years old! Going with his
joke, we said that he probably would be able to jump the canyon on his moto if
he got up to fourth gear and pulled a wheelie at the last minute ala Evil
Knievel or even Joe Jackson’s no famous Ojos river jump.
Our
evening coasted to a perfect finish by sitting on the wooden porch at the Lees
Ferry Lodge sipping on a few cold ones. We watched the sun set play on the
colors of the vermillion cliffs.
The weather report for Saturday was rain and
snow. We woke to a warm wind pushing in with a purpose. Our BATNA called for
driving the bikes in the truck thirty miles. We would ride a forestry
dirt road back to the canyon overlook. The whole morning getting packed and
driving went from bad to poor odds. We drove through two downpours. We almost
made a ‘rational decision’ to cancel riding altogether, but then we thought better of it and maintained our
mantra, “What possibly could go wrong?”
Arriving at the drop zone, we rushed to get the
five dirt bikes unloaded. The wind doubled it's efforts to the point where we
couldn't leave any doors of the cars open. It was a cold wind. Despite the high
winds and dark clouds, what we kept one eye on was the white-out clouds pushing
in behind them. We dressed in every layer we had. Despite our concerns, it felt
great to get underway. Almost right away, we started to get
"shotpeened" by micro hail. It hurt any exposed skin. After 15 miles,
we stopped. We couldn't feel our hands from the wet cold. The smart thing
would've been to cancel the ride. Stu jokingly said" I think the worst is
over!"
We decided since it was only another 7 miles to
the Canyon, we would push on. Surprisingly, conditions did start to improve! We
arrived at the edge and without exaggeration, the view was even better than the
day before. We made each other sick getting close to the edge. It seems it's
harder to watch someone else take a risk than to take it yourself. Another
dozens of photos and a few rocks tossed then we were back to riding.
Instead of returning the route we came, we
headed north parallel to the canyon. The road was a rolling and snaking road.
Off the throttle on the negative G down hillers with hard braking before the
turn. Hard gas on the uphill. It was fun watching the guy in front of you. The
ground was moist and a solid plume of dirt would roost out from the rear wheel
when the guy was on the gas! It looked
like there was a dirt firehose shooting from the back of the moto. The power of
the motor would just spin the rear wheel up to the point of traction.
The road we chose kept getting tighter and
tighter. Rockier and rockier. Our speed hardly slowed. And that made the young
guys happy.
We ricocheted our way up a tighter and tighter
dirt road until it came to a dead end. Hardly discouraged, we backtracked a
quarter mile and started exploring another no name trail. We used the
navigation method called " kinda going in the right way" (dead reckoning
is not a popular name for obvious reasons). Our only concern was our fuel
range.
Happily, our little road started to behave
itself again and finally spit us back on the main dirt road back to the car.
The clouds had cleared and it was a beaut of a day. A quick check of the
odometer and we had ridden about 32 miles that felt like 64 miles.
We were haplessly headed back to the truck when
we spotted a dirt road at our 9 o'clock. It climbed from our plateau up to the Kaibab
plateau. The Kaibab was another 2000 ft higher, into the pine trees.... And the
snow.
Still, that road "had to go somewhere"
and we couldn't resist it!
A detour was set. As we entered the road, I saw
a sign. We were riding so fast, all I
could do was chance a glance at the sign.
My mind caught that it was 22 miles to something up this road. ( so we were right!)
Throttles were twisted, rocks and dirt ejected,
and we rocketed our way up the mountain. Eventually, we were racing along the
edge of a pretty big canyon. I pondered a thankfulness that who ever broke this
trail originally did so about twenty yards back from the edge. Since we were
propelling up this crazy trail at over 40 mph, a little wrong bounce could
become a really big problem.
In no time, we were up to the snow line. The
group stopped to debate exactly where this road was going. The underlying
concern was the 80 mile range of fuel for Ray's bike. As I pulled on my coat, I
noted that we had already come 15 miles and that there was only seven more
miles to get to "somewhere" and we really aught to go see it. We
consulted the GPS oracle but it was silent on what this "somewhere"
was. In fact, it showed that the road split into three forks. All three
abruptly stopped before "somewhere".
Stu argued that the road would spit us out on
the paved highway.
Our speed became slightly more conservative. We
clicked off the miles still climbing in elevation. Some new roads finally
appeared on the GPS. A quick check showed the bad news: Stu was right, we could
take this road to the highway but it would be another thirty miles. We had hit
our "bingo" (an aviator term that may mean "bad idea no gas onboard").
Back down the hill we shot! It was almost 4:00pm. The lead team
kept up a crazy velocity downhill. Stu and I were riding 'sweep'. At a more
reasonable pace, we looked backed over our shoulder to see a whiteout storm
boiling over the top of the mountain.
We finally joined the main dirt road, and like
the road runner cartoon, made like little dirt rockets back to the truck.
At the end of the day, we had logged almost 100
miles and had seen some unforgettable sights.
Satisfied, we loaded the truck and drove an
hour to a "cabin" that Stu lined up for us. We estimated that the
cabin would only cost us $20 bucks each more which we could make up if we
cooked our own dinner.
The cabin was not the usual spartan
accommodations. A five bedroom place with a kitchen family great room. Stu made
his signature spicy sausage spaghetti. We ate our fill and had home made
brownies for dessert.
The snow started falling overnight. And we woke
Sunday to everything covered in a white dusting.
To lighten our truck, we unloaded
all the motos and made a beeline in the truck for Bryce Canyon since Matt and
Bob had never been. Stu led us on a speed walk of Navajo loop. The altitude has us all huffing and puffing.
Our ten hour ride home was longer than the ten
hour ride at the start.
We filled the time with stories of our rides
over the years and of all the crazy times and good friends.
Just perhaps, bigger than Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon all rolled together, are the great adventures spent with great friends and our sons.
Jim
Sent from my bongo drum
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